What are Centipedes?
There are many kinds of Centipedes, but they are all rather flattened
worm-like animals. Their bodies are divided into segments. The first segment
is a head with a pair of antennae and the rest of the segments each have a
pair of legs attached. Most centipedes are between 1.5 - 2" (4
- 5 cm) with about 15 pairs of legs. But their sizes do range from 0.8" -
12" (2 - 30 cm) and they can have from 15 to 191 pairs of legs. The largest
centipede is Scolopendra gigantca (12") from the tropics of
Central America.
Centipedes are land dwelling invertebrates. There are over 3,000 recognized species in the world, with about 2,500 of them named. Taxanomically they are most commonly grouped as myriapods under the phylum Anthropoda (jointed legged animals including insects, spiders, crabs, scorpions, and other myriapods - such as millepedes), and comprise the class, Chilopoda.
They usually prefer moist habitats or areas of high humidity.
Centipedes are almost totally predatory, fast moving, and aggressive. They are
very active and will quickly scurry away from a disturbance.
Centipedes can be quite long-lived, some have been known to live up to 6 years!
Fascinating pets for advanced hobbyists!
Centipedes are not pets to be handled, rather they are a visual pets enjoyed for their interesting appearance and behaviors.
Centipedes do not sting, but have a pair of poison claws behind the head and use the poison to paralyze their prey, usually small insects. Though it is reported in some places on-line that the jaws of centipedes are weak and can rarely penetrate human skin, most of the larger specimens being sold as pets can indeed give a very painful bite (or pinch). Careless individuals who are bitten can expect fairly intense pain, swelling, and a throbbing sensation. Depending on the species, this pain will last from an hour to several hours.
Though fascinating to watch, centipedes should be carefully manipulated with snake handling tools, paint brushes, and thick gloves, rather than handed.
A most intriguing pet for an advanced hobbyist!
Is a Centipede pet right for you?
Centipedes are unlike most invertebrate pets being kept in captivity. They should be kept similarly to venomous snakes with a secure enclosure system. Once they are established in a secure enclosure and once some experience is gained in their care and daily husbandry, centipedes can provide hours of fascination.
NOTE: Centipedes are not for the beginner!
Centipedes are potentially dangerous and should only be kept by an advanced hobbyist.
Although they are not considered aggressive towards humans, centipedes to not like to be cornered or touched and will respond defensively in such situations. They do not carry diseases that can be contracted by people, animal or plants; but all centipedes have a certain amount of venom and will bite (or pinch). The bite of even the largest centipede is not toxic enough to be lethal. The venom usually produces only a moderate reaction similar to that of a bee sting. Some people however, may be allergic to the venom or more sensitive to it. If there is a significant reaction, a physician should be consulted at once.
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Housing Types:
Enclosures for Centipedes :
- Plastic Containers:
Many keepers house their centipedes in large (9 to 10”) deli tubs. These tubs make suitable housing for those with large collections as they stack easily on a shelf. They must be perforated and the centipedes must be watched daily to make sure their humidity needs are met. One of the benefits of a deep substrate in a larger terrarium is that centipedes in these types of enclosures can be neglected occasionally and the humidity will remain acceptable. There have been reports of centipedes actually “chewing” out of these plastic tubs.
- Terrariums:
Centipedes do well in enclosures with plenty of floor space. They will spend a great deal of time exploring their enclosure at night, searching for a tasty meal. We use 20-gallon terrariums for most of our larger specimens. Smaller specimens can be kept in 10-gallon terrariums. A tightly fitting screen lid should be provided. If you have small children in your home, a lid with securing clips is probably warranted. We like the taller enclosures because it gives you space to be creative with live plants, driftwood, cork bark, etc. and the top of the enclosure is not easily reached by the exploring centipede.
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Housing Requirements:
In nature centipedes are found in a variety of habitats, but most seen to prefer moist protected places such as under stones, rotted logs, leaves or bark.
Substrates (floor coverings):
- Arid Environments:
A mixture of ½ play sand and ½ peat moss or coconut bedding works well for specimens from drier habitats such as Arizona and west Texas.
- Tropical Environments :
For tropical species, you can use a mix of ¼ play sand and ¾ coconut bedding and peat moss. Dampen it initially and then once a week spray the enclosure. Make one end of the enclosure a little damper than the other so the centipede can choose the amount of dampness it requires.
Cage Decor:
Providing a large piece of flat cork bark, tree bark, or other shelter adds some security for the centipede. You can also place some dried leaves and small sticks to the enclosure to add to the interest.
Lighting:
Though they remain hidden by day, the centipede enclosure can be fitted with a red or blue bulb. This bulb can be turned on at night and the keeper can watch the centipede foraging for prey and exploring its surroundings.
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Foods and Feeding:
Centipedes feed very well on a wide range of prey. Feed crickets and roaches once a week. Once a month feed larger specimens a small pink mouse. Centipedes will also feed on grasshoppers, moths, worms, and even small vertebrate prey; but be cautious of any prey that is captured in nature as they may be carriers of internal parasites.
Keep in mind that overfed invertebrates, and especially overfed centipedes, seem to die much sooner than those that are kept “lean and mean”.
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